Vitamin C DIY (do-it-yourself) Questions and Answers
This great in info comes to us from Skin Actives
The one great problem with Vitamin C DIY serums and store bought serums is the short shelf life of products containing Ascorbic Acid. This has confounded the industry and led to the development of expensive alternatives. Since the clock only starts ticking when the ascorbic acid is mixed into a cream or serum, home mixers have a great advantage over manufacturers.
How to avoid the shelf life "problem" with Ascorbic Acid in DIY skin care…
Prepare an Ascorbic Acid solution fresh every morning, by simply taking a few crystals in the palm of your hand and adding a few drops of water. This is a practical, inexpensive, and effective form of using Ascorbic Acid. Or, you could use a Vitamin C derivative that is more stable and will not readily oxidize in solution, like Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate or Ascorbyl Palmitate, depending on your serum base. Another option is to avoid water altogether, using silicones or similar chemicals as carriers.
How much Ascorbic Acid do you need in your serum?
1%, 15, 30%? The upper limit is determined by the solubility of Ascorbic Acid in water, 33 grams of Ascorbic Acid to 100 grams of distilled water. If all you want is Vitamin C activity, you don’t need much, because co-factors in enzymatic reactions are required at low concentrations and "recycled." A hint of Ascorbic Acid is all you need, but when testing was done, it was found that higher concentrations were needed for optimal results, so it is very likely that a good part of this effect is the acidity, because more Ascorbic Acid will decrease the pH of the solution.
Your Vitamin C DIY Recipe: 15% "C Serum" with Ascorbic and Ferulic Acids and Phloretin.
For clients who prefer to formulate their own products, we adapted a popular recipe found in many blogs. We also started selling a precise Scale that allows users to get reproducibility without unnecessary anxiety (is that a full or a level teaspoon? How do I measure 3/8 of a teaspoon? Why hasn’t my ascorbic acid dissolved, etc.)
The final pH of the serum will be about 5.0. Keep the serum refrigerated, and shake well before use. Discard if the color changes, as this will indicate that ascorbic acid has oxidized to a significant extent, or after two weeks at the latest, because this serum contains no preservatives. Ferulic acid and Skin Actives Antioxidant Booster will delay oxidation of the Ascorbic Acid but will not prevent the growth of bacteria and mold.
tsp: teaspoon. All measurements are approximate, unless you have a laboratory scale and can measure grams and milligrams. Use level teaspoons, NOT full teaspoons.
1 tsp ascorbic acid: 5 grams
1 tsp Sea Kelp Bioferment
1 tsp Rosehip Seed Oil
3 tsp distilled water (you can get this at the supermarket) 15 gm
1/8 tsp Ferulic Acid
1/8 tsp Phloretin
¼ tsp Skin Actives Antioxidant Booster
¼ tsp vodka or pure ethanol (NOT denatured)
½ tsp Hyaluronic Acid
Use 2 small glasses.
Glass with phase 1 (water)
Put Ascorbic Acid in glass, add water, stir frequently and let it fully dissolve. If not completely dissolved after 10 min, add a hint more of water. [This recipe uses ascorbic acid at its limit of solubility (you don’t have to)].
Glass with phase 2 (alcohol and oils suspension)
While you are waiting for the ascorbic acid to dissolve, you can proceed with the rest. Put the Ferulic Acid in the 2nd glass, pour the vodka in and stir. Now add the Sea Kelp Bioferment. Last, add the Antioxidant Booster and the Rosehip Seed Oil and stir.
When the Ascorbic Acid has fully dissolved, mix the contents of both glasses together, stir well.
Finally, add the Hyaluronic Acid, this will thicken the mix. It may take some time for the hyaluronic acid to dissolve.
Do you have a Vitamin C DIY send it in and I will post it!
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