Here are four vitamin c actives that you will find is skin care products. This information comes from Skin Actives and Lotion Crafter
Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C actives)
Ascorbic acid, vitamin C, is derived from glucose and many animals can make it starting from glucose. Primates like humans can not synthesize it (we lack an enzyme in that pathway), making ascorbic acid a vitamin because we cannot make it but need it, so we have to ingest it from a source that is contains it, like orange, lemons and other fruit.
Best used after a shower or bath (skin permeability increases). Add ¼ cup of water (55mL) to half a teaspoon (1.7 g) and mix until well dissolved (it takes a few seconds)to create a solution (3%). Apply with cotton wool or similar to skin. Leave on, or rinse if it stings. Afterwards, apply a cream containing lipophilic antioxidants.
Some people prefer the C derivatives over l-ascorbic acid. If you have sensitive skin and using l-ascorbic acid burns your skin you my want to try one of these other c derivatives
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C actives)
If you want to use one of the vitamin c actives in a cream this is the type of vitamin c to use even if the cream has peptides and proteins.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)will be transformed by the skin enzymes into Ascorbic Acid (vitamin C actives), an anti-oxidant and a cofactor for an enzyme crucial in the synthesis of collagen (prolyl hydrolase). As an anti-oxidant agent, vitamin C scavenges and destroys reactive oxidizing agents and other free radicals. Because of this ability, it provides important protection against damage induced by UV radiation (and the DNA mutations and cancer that may result from it).
Vitamin C also improves skin elasticity, decreases wrinkles by stimulating collagen synthesis, reduces redness, promotes wound healing and suppresses cutaneous pigmentation. Because body control mechanisms limit the amount of ingested vitamin C available to skin, topical anti-oxidant therapy becomes an efficient way to target vitamin C directly to the skin. This is the "real" ester-C, a more stable form of ascorbic acid and will stimulate collagen synthesis.
10 grams is enough for 4 fl oz of cream, lotion, or gel at approximately 10% concentration (10 g in 120 mL cream). Use in your favorite cream or add to our Canvas Base Cream or a Sea Kelp Bioferment base.
Use caution when adding MAP to a cream, it can affect the texture and cause the cream to liquify. This will not affect the activity, merely change the texture. This happens because MAP has a lot of salts which cause a change in the interaction of the molecules in the cream. Mixing MAP with a Sea Kelp Bioferment base has little to no effect on texture. You can get this Sea Kelp Bioferment at Skin Actives.
When mixing you would use one quarter of a teaspoon of MAP to three teaspoons of a thicking agent.
Use 1 teaspoon of distilled water in a small glass dish with one quarter of a teaspoon of MAP (1-1.2g). To dissolve the Map you my have to heat the solution by placeing the dish into a pot of hot water. Keep mixing until the mixture becomes transparent. If it remains slightly opaque it is ok. Then mix in your thickening agent, glycerin, KY-jelly or base cream.
This is one active ingredient that it would be good to use a scale the density of the Map powder often varies.
Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C actives)
Ascorbyl Palmitate is a Vitamin C ester that is best used in formulations with an oily base. It is a great antioxidant to add to your formulation.
Esterification of ascorbic acid with a fatty acid (palmitic acid) allows it to do its antioxidant job in the oily phase. It may also help extend the life of ascorbic acid. But, don’t think that just one antioxidant will do it, you need several and varied antioxidant to help you skin eliminate free radicals formed in the course of normal metabolism and even more when there is UV light around and/or pollutants. Look for our antiox booster as a source of great antioxidants that can do their job in the oily phase. For the water phase, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, EGCG from green tea and our antioxidants enzymes will help you in the daily fight against oxygen, the essential poison!
This is a very stable, oil-soluble Vitamin C ester which has anti-oxidant activity, inhibiting lipid peroxidation. Topical use can mitigate the damaging effects of UV exposure. Studies have shown it to stimulate collagen production as well as clarifying and brightening the skin by inhibiting melanogenesis (the production of pigment) thereby promoting a more even skin tone. Unlike ascorbic acid, it will not exfoliate or irritate skin.
Typical Usage: 0.5-2%, up to 7%
Appearance: Clear to pale yellow viscous liquid
Storage: Store in a cool dry place, avoid freezing
Solubility: Oil Soluble
INCI: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Caution: Do not directly apply onto your skin. This product should be added to a formulation at the recommended usage rate.
Mix about one eigth of a teaspoonful of Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate per ounce of cream and mix thoroughly.
Let us know which of these vitamin c actives do you use. If you make your own skin care and would like to share your recipe I would be glad to past it.
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