9 facts on vitamin C products and how to make you own C serum
Is it all hype?
I recommend everyone put Vitamin C and E onto their face daily because they protect against UV induced cell damage. It is this sun damage that not only causes premature aging but also skin cancers. However Vitamin C has other properties including being one of the few ingredients that has a science base to show that it reverses signs of aging to the skin.
Vitamin C was originally used in skin care products in the form of ascorbic acid. At a 10% concentration and low ph, ascorbic acid has been shown to stimulate collagen, decrease wrinkle depth and have lightening effects on pigmentation. It was thought that a minimum 10% concentration was required but newer information indicate that lower concentration (5%) may have benefit. It is best to stay with products that have this concentration or above.
9 Facts about vitamin C serums
1. Consumer beware - not all products contain sufficient vitamin C to be of benefit
Most products on the market do not have sufficient concentration to be of benefit to the skin. Many companies, keen to cash in on the market trends for antioxidants in skin care, put only miniscule amounts in and consumers unknowingly will buy a product that will be of no benefit. Unfortunately you cannot judge from the prestige or price of the product you buy, you need to look at the concentrations. See blog post on topical antioxidants.
2. Vitamin C does not work in everyone
For reasons that are not yet known, Ascorbic Acid at a good concentration does not work in everyone. It may only be 60% of the population who get the age reversing benefits of vitamin C. Some people who do not respond to Ascorbic Acid however still get anti-aging benefits from the newer vitamin C derivatives. (Discussed later). Vitamin C, however is a potent antioxidant and you still should get the benefits of protection from UV induced cell damage even if it does not keep you looking younger.
3. Vitamin C in the form of Ascorbic Acid is very expensive
Vitamin C is very unstable and difficult to get into a formulation this in part explains why ascorbic acid skin products tend to be very expensive.
4. Your Vitamin C may oxidise before you get to put it on your skin
The biggest problem with Ascorbic Acid creams and serums is that because they are unstable, they are oxidised very quickly and once it is oxidised it does not provide any benefit to the skin at all. Even in stabilised formulations there is a risk that before you get your precious vitamin C cream or serum home, it will already be useless and worse may even because more damage to your skin than good.
5. Watch for yellowing of your serum- it indicates oxidation
As it undergoes oxidation the ascorbic acid takes on a yellowish tinge, so it is important to check your creams or serums before you put them on your face, and if there is any yellow discolouration, DISCARD.
There is a problem with the colour check as the first stage of oxidation is colourless, so prior to going yellow it can be in an oxidised state that cannot be detected.
6. Do not buy vitamin C preparations that are tinted yellow or orange
The second problem with using a colour test is that many vitamin C serums are tinted and you will not be not be able to detect if it is oxidised by visual checking. Why a company would do this is beyond me, when they know the difficulties of instability of vitamin C formulations oxidising. If you didn’t trust them you would think they are deliberately trying to mislead. Do not buy tinted formulations of vitamin C.
7. Vitamin C derivatives are more stable, less expensive and effective at lower concentrations
There are newer derivatives of Vitamin C: Ascorbyl palmitate, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and some of these are proving as effective as ascorbic acid in collagen stimulation. Refer Smartskincare an excellent science based skin care site. These derivatives are effective in lower concentrations, are more stable and less expensive and as such may be a better choice. There is a battle among some of the big cosmetic houses as to which is most effective but the newest Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate if particularly promising, and seems to work in some people who are resistant to Ascorbic Acid.
8. There is nothing special about the base cream or serum that the vitamin C (or any other active product) is delivered in
Thinking about it logically, if a product has 10% ascorbic acid in stabilised form, or 2% Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (the active ingredient) then no matter what the cost it will be equally effective, as there is no base serum or cream that has properties that make it effective in anti-aging-and that is the truth.
This is illustrated with my recent comment on Boots no 7 perfect and protect - where a chain store anti-aging cream is matching up to more expensive prestige brands and winning. The reason: it is the active ingredients that has the effect, no matter what advertising trys to seduce you - REMEMBER THIS FACT.
9. You can make your own Vitamin C Serum
There is however some ingredients that are now considered state of the art in modern skin care. Among these is a group of base ingredients that help protect the skin and maintain the intercellular network. Refer Cosmetic Cop - Paula Begoun cosmetic ingredients dictionary on natural moisturising factors. These do not have anti—aging benefit but protect the skin and assist in repair. Glycerin is one of these, other very good protectants and natural moisturisers are ceramides and silicones.
Glycerin is the one I am particularly interested in, as this next post I will give you a very simple recipe for a vitamin C serum made from glycerin and ascorbic acid you buy at the chemist store, so you can make your very own 10% ascorbic acid serum. This will cost you a fraction of what you would pay off the shelf and because you make it fresh you know it will not be oxidised and it will work.
Make your own Vitamin C serum
The recipe makes an approximate 10% concentration of vitamin C serum, using simple ingredients you can buy from your local Chemist store. The advantages of doing it yourself – apart from the obvious – ‘it will save you a lot of money’ is that you can make it fresh, store it in your refridgerator and know that it will not have oxidised- so in fact you will get fresh active product onto your skin. It is best only to make up small quantities at a time, to ensure it is always fresh and unoxidised.
Take care- these are active ingredients
At this concentration it will have a relatively low ph, and in some people this will be too irritating for the skin. If this is the case, try making a half or even quarter concentration to start with. Use this for a week or two until you know you skin is tolerating this, and then slowly increase to a higher concentration. If after you apply it, you find your skin is tingling excessively, wash off immediately.
The recipe is divided into active ingredient, the one that has been shown to stimulate collagen, reduce fine lines and wrinkles and protect against sun damage and a simple base formula. Any product you buy over the counter with active ingredients consists of this.
Vitamin C serum
Active Ingredient :
1-1.2 grams Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) (approximately 1/4 teaspoon)
(The active ingredient must be L-ascorbic acid, not vitamin C tablets, or calcium Ascorbate) This can also be purchased from Skin Actives.
Base Ingredients.
5 ml glycerine (1 teaspoon)
5ml water (1 teaspoon)
You should be able to buy both the L-ascorbic acid and glycerine from your chemist store.
Process.
1. Dissolve 1gram of L-ascorbic acid in 5 ml of water (preferably distilled), in small glass container using a stirrer. Make sure it is fully dissolved before proceeding to next step.
2. Add 5 ml of glycerine and mix.
3. Put in a sealable jar, (not clear glass as this allows light in, and light degrades vitamin C.) Store in cool dry place.
Voila – your own fresh vitamin C serum.
Apply to skin once per day to start with (preferably at night), and increase to twice daily if tolerated.
Post note
This serum is published to illustrate that it is the active ingredient that has benefits and to get you to challenge the notion that you need to pay a lot of money for active skin care ingredients. You must exercise caution when using this as with any product you put on your skin, if any signs of allergy or reaction develop desist immediately. In my last post I give two good sources of companies that provide products, including base creams and various active ingredients that allow you to make your own active creams at home.
Articles by Dr. Jo
In looking for more information
I found out that plain ascorbic acid which is approximately half L-ascorbic acid and half D-ascorbic acid.
Our bodies only utilize L-ascorbic acid and easily filter out the D-ascorbic acid making plain ascorbic acid.
Any future ideas or ingredients that you would like to have in this kit send a note to me, just type your comments in the box below. If you would like an email back you will have to leave your email address.
When you leave a note it goes to my email and then a copy and past it here. It will not automatically show up. This way I can keep out the spam.
Vitamin C Serum Kit is Here
At this time we are only shipping in the USA.
$22.50 with Free Shipping
I looked for information on these Vitamin C Serums and then put together this skin care kit.
Please note that this item is plain ascorbic acid which is approximately half L-ascorbic acid and half D-ascorbic acid. Our bodies only utilize L-ascorbic acid and easily filter out the D-ascorbic acid making plain ascorbic acid the best value for the price.
Is a helpful and indispensable household ally for treating burns, bites and other skin conditions. Aleo Vera is a plant from the lily family whose anti-irritant properties have been recognized since before the days a Cleopatra. You may try adding it to the Vitiman C Serum or the French Clay.
This Clay has enormous absorbent powers due to the constitution of its micro molecules. Its toning action stimulates the skin by bringing fresh blood to damaged skin cells, revitalizing the complexion, and tightening pores. French Green Clay is marvelous for helping to clear problem skin. The glycerin can clog pores that is used in the vitamin c serum recipe.
General Directions
Simply place a small amount of clay within palm and add water to desired consistency. Work into a paste and apply to face. Allow to dry for 15-30 minutes. When dried thoroughly with water, pat dry and feel good.
These are a good combination of natural ingredients that I think you can use in many Homemade recipes. At a cost that is within reason.
As you find different recipes I would be glad to post them at Natural Skin Care Info. And Let me know how it works on your skin type.
: I bought normal powdered ascorbic acid, would this be all right? Also, can I just add a small amount of ascorbic acid to my normal cream when I put it on at night?
Wayne
Yes just dissolve 1/4 of a teaspoon ascorbic acid in 5 ml of water (preferably distilled), in small glass container using a stirrer. Make sure it is fully dissolved before you mix it into your cream. As always do a patch test before using it on your face.
At this time the only lotion that I have read that is good to use with ascorbic acid is Curel Continous Comfort Lotion.
Let me know if your cream is working for you.
: Hi its kikka again, I have been reading alot on Synergy Tk as the new wonder
ingredient what can you tell me about it and also eye creams? what is the best
to use and can I use lanolin cream under my eyes or will I clog my pores?
thanx Kikka
Wayne
I will be on the look out for information on Synergy TK...it is a new one on me
As for creams that you put around your eyes you have to be careful. The skin is very tender.
: hi I have been making my own serum for a few months now and I feel it is
working, I'm not sure if I can put retinol A on top and also there is a store
that sells 20% vit C serum which is stabilised, can I have a recipe for a
20-23% vit C serum?
also I have been putting fresh carrot juice on my face. Tell us more of your
secret, tried and tested recipes, some of us cannot get enough.
thanx Kikka
Wayne
As going over the 10% vitamin c recipes I would say you are better off makeing a fresh
batch at 10% than buying one that clames to be higher. Even though they are claming to be higher it is hard to get it there. A good source is The Wrinkle Cure By Nicholas Perricone, MD. He worked on the Vitamin c Ester. This is a good book on the vitamin c and the skin.
As for recipes when I find them or they are sent in I will post them.
: I think for me the magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is a better choice as I want the collagen boosting without the daily exfoliation that ascorbic acid would cause.
Would the formula ratios you give be the same if I were to use magnesium ascorbyl phosphate instead of ascorbic acid? If not, do you know how it should be altered?
Thanks in advance.
Wayne
One recipe is all most the same. It is 1 to 1.2 g which is 1/4 of a teaspoon. Although with this magnesium ascorbyl phosphate the power often will varie so it is recommended using a scale. 1 teaspoon of distilled water. Dissolve the MAP in the water, It will start out opaque, keep mixing. You may have to place the glass jar into a pot of hot water. Then mix in your 3 teaspoons of glycerin. Unlike the vitamin c serum you cannot use a cream or lotion because the MAP would curd or liquefy them.
: Is it normal for the dissolved ascorbic acid to crystalize back into it's powder form on your face once the base dries off?
Wayne
I mix it this way...I first put in 1/4 teaspoon of ascorbic acid in my jar, then I add 1 teaspoon of real warm water and mix it together making sure it is dissolved then I add the glycerine.
The ascorbic acid that I have is finer than sugar (some ascorbic acid does come in a larger grain) and has not crystalize back
into it's power form for me.
Even if mixing ascorbic acid in a base cream I will still dissolve it in warm water before mixing in the cream.
What are you using as your base. For me the glycerine does not dry off.
: I've tried this a couple of time now, and I really hate the glycerin on my skin it made it really sticky and uncomfortable. And for some reason makes my skin go bright red, but when i tried it with no glycerin and double the amount of water it seems fine (so far), plus feels so much nicer!
Can this help with red marks left behind after acne? This is the issue I'm dealing with and some scarring as well.
It says in the article that it doesn't work for everyone, how long should you give it to see if it's going to work for you?
Thank you!
L
Wayne
I am on the look out for a good base cream that the Ascorbic Acid can be added to help out with this sticky feeling that some people do not like.
After 4 to 6 weeks one may want to try other recipes or products. I can not say if it will help with red marks left behind after acne. If I were you I would send a note to Dr. Jo and see what she has to say.
: This information has been very informative and insightful. I will try to locate a Chemist store to purchase the necessary ingredients. I recently heard about the Vichy product, where they provide you with the kit and you mix it yourself and store in the fridge for no longer than 30 days. Is this a good
product.Also you indicate vitamin E, do you apply vitamic C and E together or a separate times and when.
Thanks
Wayne
Well I do have a kit here but as long a you give us your recipe that you are using and how it is working.
I have not seen The Vichy product but will look into it.
I have read in blogs of people mixing the two and using it at night. Just use the patch test before using it on your face. Most of the info I have seen is using it at night,
: I have recently added copper peptides to my routine and have read that I should not use them at the same time as vitamin c serums as they will neutralize. Are there any other products I shouldn't mix with the vitamin c serum? I am planning on using the vitamin c serum in the morning with an acne treatment consisting of salicylic acid and tea tree oil and then the copper
peptides and retinol products at night.
Thanks!
Wayne
I was looking to find where I saw a note about not adding any kind of metal with a Vitamin C Serum. I do remember is saying NOT TO. I beleave it is that the oxidation With the Vitamin C and the metal any metal will be very fast. One sign will be that it will turn yellowish in tint. Although the absence of a tint does not guarantee the lack of oxidation. You may want to send a note over to Dr. Jo to see what she has to say. You will find a link at the top of the page.
: Hello,
I tried to order using the link you provided. I am connected directly to pay pal or a credit card payment site. This seems strange, as I have given no delivery address, or determine how many kits I want. What is up with this.
Thanks,
Sean Mc Evoy
Wayne
When I put the Pay Pal buttom together I was thinking that people would be buying only one kit at a time. You are given lines to fill out your address and other information. I will change the button so people can buy more than one kit. I just checked the buy button and it seems to be working and we have filled orders with it.
: hi I tried making vitamin c serum as on this site, and it is fantastic! but there's only one problem. Pillow and bed sheets and my white T-shirt (around the neck line) had turned yellow because of the serum on my face. I tried washing it off but the stain is still there. It will be soooooo perfect if the serum does not stain.^^
Wayne
Have you tried putting on a moisturizer on top of the serum at night? Or may be putting it on in the morning. Any more help on this would be great...Send them in.
: Hi, my name is Amber and Im a young 27 year old women. I dont know much about this stuff and Im sure not a chemist. But I've read your article and Im very interested in what your creating. I dont know if I could make this at home on my own since I have no real experience but I would love to try. I have always hated my skin tone and texture. Im very dry and I have large pores. But
I was told to try some serum with vitamin C. I have been looking on-line at medical and beauty sites and they all have one thing in common. Very high prices. Im hesitant to buy these products not knowing if it will work. I just dont want to be disappointed.
please let me know what you think.
Thanks.
Wayne
Hi Amber
I know the prices of some of the skincare products can be a little pricy. However, I have tried to put together this vitamin c skin care kit and keep it at the lowest possible price. It is easy to mix the ingredients(there's only 3 ingredients) and they will stay fresh as long as you use it within a week and keep it refridgerated. There is a French Green Clay Mask included in the kit and it addresses oily skin along with larger pores.
: I would be interested in the kit. Let me know when ready. Ann
Wayne
Hi Ann from this comment box it will not leave me your email address. If you leave an email address that you would like me to get back to you I will not post it, but will post comments and will email a response. Thank you for the note.
: Hai. Since Vit C is unstable and can be easily spoil so how about
substitution of grape seed oil as moisturiser as it contain both Vit E 50x and
Vit C 20x and Linoic acid ? They are important components of anti-aging. Your
ideas will be appreciated.
Wayne
I think grape seed oil would be great and was thinking of ading it to the kit. Also grape seed oil also mixes good with water along with sunflower oil. At this time I was looking for a good base cream or lotion, thinking people would like a crean over an oil.
Jena
You are welcome. I replace base cream with hyaluronic acid as it can penetrate deeper into our skin and act also as carrier of other anti-aging ingredients! My skin improves tremendous within 1 months upon introduction of hyaluronic acids! I receive many compliments.� I shall check on sunflower oil� and other vitamin c serum to know their effectiveness.What are your other routine?
: I would be very interested in purchasing your vitamin c serum kit containing the products you mentioned and an appropriate dark bottle with a dropper to apply.
Thank you,
Jill Trimble
Wayne
Thanks for the comment. The bottles will be a dark green. We were thinking of including a mixing spatula and a quarter tsp. measuring spoon.
: Let me know when you have the kit. What about adding a herb that tones the skin also? I know Vitamin C tones, but another good one. I have a few in mind, but I'll leave that for you. Its your deal.
thanks,
I'll be waiting.
Wayne
Not one active ingredient will work on all skin types. I'm looking to put together kits for these different skin types as well. Starting with vitamin c and going from there. So if you have any ideas I would be glad to hear them. And post for the readers here at Natural Skin Care Info
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: Hi I use KY-jelly over the glycerin. I also found it was sticky and that I was not using it. With the KY-jelly I use it all the time.
Thanks Tina
I'm looking for L-ascorbic acid but all I can find at this time is ascorbic acid.
Even the websites that say they have it, when I looked at their COA form it looks like it is just ascorbic acid.
In emailing one company thay they took the time to explain to me that ascorbic acid is
50% L-ascorbic acid and 50% D-ascorbic acid. The body will only use the L component anyway and will discard the D so the body makes a good filter anyway with no adverse
effects.
I'm also looking for a good base cream to ad it to. I have one coming to try. Also I'm thinking I may ad a jar of glycerine.
Any idaes would be great. When I do get it put together I will send you a note.
: hi sounds like a good idea, cant seem to get active ingredient, help
Wayne
I have found out that ascorbic acid comes in a powder form and a crystal form. I'm looking to make sure that I get the powder form so it will mix in the serum better.
: "This is illustrated with my recent comment on Boots no 7 perfect and protect
..."
I wish there was a search option on here, because I can't locate these comments.
Wayne
When I first put the comment box in, the box had a spam protection box. I was finding that people were not using this and their comments were not getting through. I took it out and I seem to be getting more information. This may have happened to you
: anything that may aid in the reparation of loose skin after pregnancy would
be a plus a great buy to me. Something organic since i am still nursing. Thanks
: I found vitamin C & E combined in a softgel supplement, other ingredients are
gelatin, soybean, glycerin,soy lecithin and beeswax. What do you think about
puncturing the softgel and add to regular face cream? C is Ascobic Acid and
Rose Hips, 500mg and the E is d-Alpha Tocopherol plus d-Beta, d-Gamma and
d-Delta Tocopherol, whatever all that means. What do you think?
Wayne
I have read in blogs where people have used these softgels and there are some products that are out there that you do combine the two. Softgels and cream. Check out HSN under their vitamin c creams.
As for the whatever all that means, This is the vitamine E mixture. And having all of them in the D form is better. Some manufacturers will use the D and L form. Half D and Half L. It is very expensive to isolate the D. This will be a more effective.
I would only make up an once at a time. Use it up and make up more.
: Hi Wayne -
Thanks for getting back to me on the softgels. I have been puncturing one A and one C & E softgel each night to put on my face and haven't had any adverse effects and my skin doesn't seem as dull. I'm sure you will come up with much better products for your kit and I can't wait to order one.
: Where can I buy or order the L-ascorbic powder and glycerin so that I can
start making my own serum? Please send me some websites or addresses or phone
numbers to order. If I contact pharmacies around here, I'm afraid they won't
be helpful. Thanks, Martha
Wayne
I have put two links just above the comment box with links to buy both ascorbic acid and the glycern.