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Vitamin C serum by Dr. Jo

Here are 9 facts on vitamin c serum and a Homemade recipe to make your own vitamin c serum from Dr Joanne Turner and her Blog Skin Revision.

The new serum kit is here so you can make up a fresh batch for yourself at home.

Skin Revision

9 facts on vitamin C products and how to make you own C serum Is it all hype?

I recommend everyone put Vitamin C and E onto their face daily because they protect against UV induced cell damage. It is this sun damage that not only causes premature aging but also skin cancers. However Vitamin C has other properties including being one of the few ingredients that has a science base to show that it reverses signs of aging to the skin.

Vitamin C was originally used in skin care products in the form of ascorbic acid. At a 10% concentration and low ph, ascorbic acid has been shown to stimulate collagen, decrease wrinkle depth and have lightening effects on pigmentation. It was thought that a minimum 10% concentration was required but newer information indicate that lower concentration (5%) may have benefit. It is best to stay with products that have this concentration or above.

9 Facts about vitamin C serums

1. Consumer beware - not all products contain sufficient vitamin C to be of benefit Most products on the market do not have sufficient concentration to be of benefit to the skin. Many companies, keen to cash in on the market trends for antioxidants in skin care, put only miniscule amounts in and consumers unknowingly will buy a product that will be of no benefit. Unfortunately you cannot judge from the prestige or price of the product you buy, you need to look at the concentrations. See blog post on topical antioxidants.

2. Vitamin C does not work in everyone For reasons that are not yet known, Ascorbic Acid at a good concentration does not work in everyone. It may only be 60% of the population who get the age reversing benefits of vitamin C. Some people who do not respond to Ascorbic Acid however still get anti-aging benefits from the newer vitamin C derivatives. (Discussed later). Vitamin C, however is a potent antioxidant and you still should get the benefits of protection from UV induced cell damage even if it does not keep you looking younger.

3. Vitamin C in the form of Ascorbic Acid is very expensive Vitamin C is very unstable and difficult to get into a formulation this in part explains why ascorbic acid skin products tend to be very expensive.

4. Your Vitamin C may oxidise before you get to put it on your skin The biggest problem with Ascorbic Acid creams and serums is that because they are unstable, they are oxidised very quickly and once it is oxidised it does not provide any benefit to the skin at all. Even in stabilised formulations there is a risk that before you get your precious vitamin C cream or serum home, it will already be useless and worse may even because more damage to your skin than good.

5. Watch for yellowing of your serum- it indicates oxidation As it undergoes oxidation the ascorbic acid takes on a yellowish tinge, so it is important to check your creams or serums before you put them on your face, and if there is any yellow discolouration, DISCARD.

There is a problem with the colour check as the first stage of oxidation is colourless, so prior to going yellow it can be in an oxidised state that cannot be detected.

6. Do not buy vitamin C preparations that are tinted yellow or orange The second problem with using a colour test is that many vitamin C serums are tinted and you will not be not be able to detect if it is oxidised by visual checking. Why a company would do this is beyond me, when they know the difficulties of instability of vitamin C formulations oxidising. If you didn’t trust them you would think they are deliberately trying to mislead. Do not buy tinted formulations of vitamin C.

7. Vitamin C derivatives are more stable, less expensive and effective at lower concentrations There are newer derivatives of Vitamin C: Ascorbyl palmitate, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and some of these are proving as effective as ascorbic acid in collagen stimulation. Refer Smartskincare an excellent science based skin care site. These derivatives are effective in lower concentrations, are more stable and less expensive and as such may be a better choice. There is a battle among some of the big cosmetic houses as to which is most effective but the newest Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate if particularly promising, and seems to work in some people who are resistant to Ascorbic Acid.

8. There is nothing special about the base cream or serum that the vitamin C (or any other active product) is delivered in Thinking about it logically, if a product has 10% ascorbic acid in stabilised form, or 2% Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (the active ingredient) then no matter what the cost it will be equally effective, as there is no base serum or cream that has properties that make it effective in anti-aging-and that is the truth.

This is illustrated with my recent comment on Boots no 7 perfect and protect - where a chain store anti-aging cream is matching up to more expensive prestige brands and winning. The reason: it is the active ingredients that has the effect, no matter what advertising trys to seduce you - REMEMBER THIS FACT.

9. You can make your own Vitamin C Serum There is however some ingredients that are now considered state of the art in modern skin care. Among these is a group of base ingredients that help protect the skin and maintain the intercellular network. Refer Cosmetic Cop - Paula Begoun cosmetic ingredients dictionary on natural moisturising factors. These do not have anti—aging benefit but protect the skin and assist in repair. Glycerin is one of these, other very good protectants and natural moisturisers are ceramides and silicones.

Glycerin is the one I am particularly interested in, as this next post I will give you a very simple recipe for a vitamin C serum made from glycerin and ascorbic acid you buy at the chemist store, so you can make your very own 10% ascorbic acid serum. This will cost you a fraction of what you would pay off the shelf and because you make it fresh you know it will not be oxidised and it will work.

Make your own Vitamin C serum

The recipe makes an approximate 10% concentration of vitamin C serum, using simple ingredients you can buy from your local Chemist store. The advantages of doing it yourself – apart from the obvious – ‘it will save you a lot of money’ is that you can make it fresh, store it in your refridgerator and know that it will not have oxidised- so in fact you will get fresh active product onto your skin. It is best only to make up small quantities at a time, to ensure it is always fresh and unoxidised.

Take care- these are active ingredients At this concentration it will have a relatively low ph, and in some people this will be too irritating for the skin. If this is the case, try making a half or even quarter concentration to start with. Use this for a week or two until you know you skin is tolerating this, and then slowly increase to a higher concentration. If after you apply it, you find your skin is tingling excessively, wash off immediately.

The recipe is divided into active ingredient, the one that has been shown to stimulate collagen, reduce fine lines and wrinkles and protect against sun damage and a simple base formula. Any product you buy over the counter with active ingredients consists of this.

Vitamin C serum Active Ingredient : 1-1.2 grams Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) (approximately 1/4 teaspoon) (The active ingredient must be L-ascorbic acid, not vitamin C tablets, or calcium Ascorbate) This can also be purchased from Skin Actives.

Base Ingredients. 5 ml glycerine (1 teaspoon) 5ml water (1 teaspoon) You should be able to buy both the L-ascorbic acid and glycerine from your chemist store.

Process. 1. Dissolve 1gram of L-ascorbic acid in 5 ml of water (preferably distilled), in small glass container using a stirrer. Make sure it is fully dissolved before proceeding to next step.

2. Add 5 ml of glycerine and mix.

3. Put in a sealable jar, (not clear glass as this allows light in, and light degrades vitamin C.) Store in cool dry place.

Voila – your own fresh vitamin C serum. Apply to skin once per day to start with (preferably at night), and increase to twice daily if tolerated.

Post note This serum is published to illustrate that it is the active ingredient that has benefits and to get you to challenge the notion that you need to pay a lot of money for active skin care ingredients. You must exercise caution when using this as with any product you put on your skin, if any signs of allergy or reaction develop desist immediately. In my last post I give two good sources of companies that provide products, including base creams and various active ingredients that allow you to make your own active creams at home.

Articles by Dr. Jo

In looking for more information

I found out that plain ascorbic acid which is approximately half L-ascorbic acid and half D-ascorbic acid.

Our bodies only utilize L-ascorbic acid and easily filter out the D-ascorbic acid making plain ascorbic acid.

Vitamin C Serum Kit is Here

At this time we are only shipping in the USA.

$22.50 with Free Shipping

I looked for information on these Vitamin C Serums and then put together this skin care kit.

The main ingredients,

Ascorbic Acid 20 ml (2 teaspoons)

Glycerin. 2oz

This is the simple recipe. But do not forget that you can ad the ascorbic acid to your own base cream after you have it dissolved.

Make sure you first test this recipe on your arm for a week to before using it on your face. If any irritation develops, discontinue its use.

I have also included these other natural ingredients.

Aloe Vera Gel 2oz

Is a helpful and indispensable household ally for treating burns, bites and other skin conditions. Aleo Vera is a plant from the lily family whose anti-irritant properties have been recognized since before the days a Cleopatra. You may try adding it to the Vitiman C Serum or the French Clay.

French Green Clay 2 tablespoons

This Clay has enormous absorbent powers due to the constitution of its micro molecules. Its toning action stimulates the skin by bringing fresh blood to damaged skin cells, revitalizing the complexion, and tightening pores. French Green Clay is marvelous for helping to clear problem skin. The glycerin can clog pores that is used in the vitamin c serum recipe.

General Directions

Simply place a small amount of clay within palm and add water to desired consistency. Work into a paste and apply to face. Allow to dry for 15-30 minutes. When dried thoroughly with water, pat dry and feel good.

These are a good combination of natural ingredients that I think you can use in many Homemade recipes. At a cost that is within reason.

As you find different recipes I would be glad to post them at Natural Skin Care Info. And Let me know how it works on your skin type.

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Any future ideas or ingredients that you would like to have in this kit send a note to me, just type your comments in the box below. If you would like an email back you will have to leave your email address.

When you leave a note it goes to my email and then a copy and past it here. It will not automatically show up. This way I can keep out the spam.

Vitamin C Serum Comments

Sent In Information and Questions

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: Hi, my name is Amber and Im a young 27 year old women. I dont know much about this stuff and Im sure not a chemist. But I've read your article and Im very interested in what your creating. I dont know if I could make this at home on my own since I have no real experience but I would love to try. I have always hated my skin tone and texture. Im very dry and I have large pores. But I was told to try some serum with vitamin C. I have been looking on-line at medical and beauty sites and they all have one thing in common. Very high prices. Im hesitant to buy these products not knowing if it will work. I just dont want to be disappointed.

please let me know what you think.

Thanks.

Wayne

Hi Amber

I know the prices of some of the skincare products can be a little pricy. However, I have tried to put together this vitamin c skin care kit and keep it at the lowest possible price. It is easy to mix the ingredients(there's only 3 ingredients) and they will stay fresh as long as you use it within a week and keep it refridgerated. There is a French Green Clay Mask included in the kit and it addresses oily skin along with larger pores.

Thanks for the note!

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: I would be interested in the kit. Let me know when ready. Ann

Wayne

Hi Ann from this comment box it will not leave me your email address. If you leave an email address that you would like me to get back to you I will not post it, but will post comments and will email a response. Thank you for the note.

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: Thank you very informative!

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: Hai. Since Vit C is unstable and can be easily spoil so how about substitution of grape seed oil as moisturiser as it contain both Vit E 50x and Vit C 20x and Linoic acid ? They are important components of anti-aging. Your ideas will be appreciated.

Wayne

I think grape seed oil would be great and was thinking of ading it to the kit. Also grape seed oil also mixes good with water along with sunflower oil. At this time I was looking for a good base cream or lotion, thinking people would like a crean over an oil.

Jena

You are welcome. I replace base cream with hyaluronic acid as it can penetrate deeper into our skin and act also as carrier of other anti-aging ingredients! My skin improves tremendous within 1 months upon introduction of hyaluronic acids! I receive many compliments.� I shall check on sunflower oil� and other vitamin c serum to know their effectiveness.What are your other routine?

Regards,

Jena

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: i think emu oil (if it is still around) would be a perfect "serum"-textured base

Wayne

This is the base lotion that we are trying now and may become part of the kit.

Samis MSM Lotion w/Emu Oil

Sami's MSM lotion with the added benefit of emu oil for better skin penetration. The ingredients are Distilled Water, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera)Leaf Juice, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba Oil) Seed Oil , Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower Oil) Seed Oil, Methylsulfonylmethane (MSM 19%), Emu Oil, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Liquid Polymer *, Phenonip**, Fragrance (Only in Warm Vanilla and Fresh Apricot)

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: I would be very interested in purchasing your vitamin c serum kit containing the products you mentioned and an appropriate dark bottle with a dropper to apply.

Thank you,
Jill Trimble

Wayne

Thanks for the comment. The bottles will be a dark green. We were thinking of including a mixing spatula and a quarter tsp. measuring spoon.

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: Let me know when you have the kit. What about adding a herb that tones the skin also? I know Vitamin C tones, but another good one. I have a few in mind, but I'll leave that for you. Its your deal.

thanks,

I'll be waiting.

Wayne

Not one active ingredient will work on all skin types. I'm looking to put together kits for these different skin types as well. Starting with vitamin c and going from there. So if you have any ideas I would be glad to hear them. And post for the readers here at Natural Skin Care Info

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: Hi I use KY-jelly over the glycerin. I also found it was sticky and that I was not using it. With the KY-jelly I use it all the time. Thanks Tina
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When will the vit c serum kit be available?

Wayne

I'm looking for L-ascorbic acid but all I can find at this time is ascorbic acid.

Even the websites that say they have it, when I looked at their COA form it looks like it is just ascorbic acid.

In emailing one company thay they took the time to explain to me that ascorbic acid is 50% L-ascorbic acid and 50% D-ascorbic acid. The body will only use the L component anyway and will discard the D so the body makes a good filter anyway with no adverse effects.

I'm also looking for a good base cream to ad it to. I have one coming to try. Also I'm thinking I may ad a jar of glycerine.

Any idaes would be great. When I do get it put together I will send you a note.

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: Hi, I have used the Vit C serum before and it di=oes help in making your skin look so much better. Kw=eep the info flowing.. Thanks alot Margo

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: hi sounds like a good idea, cant seem to get active ingredient, help

Wayne

I have found out that ascorbic acid comes in a powder form and a crystal form. I'm looking to make sure that I get the powder form so it will mix in the serum better.

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: "This is illustrated with my recent comment on Boots no 7 perfect and protect ..."

I wish there was a search option on here, because I can't locate these comments.

Wayne

When I first put the comment box in, the box had a spam protection box. I was finding that people were not using this and their comments were not getting through. I took it out and I seem to be getting more information. This may have happened to you

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: anything that may aid in the reparation of loose skin after pregnancy would be a plus a great buy to me. Something organic since i am still nursing. Thanks

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: I found vitamin C & E combined in a softgel supplement, other ingredients are gelatin, soybean, glycerin,soy lecithin and beeswax. What do you think about puncturing the softgel and add to regular face cream? C is Ascobic Acid and Rose Hips, 500mg and the E is d-Alpha Tocopherol plus d-Beta, d-Gamma and d-Delta Tocopherol, whatever all that means. What do you think?

Wayne

I have read in blogs where people have used these softgels and there are some products that are out there that you do combine the two. Softgels and cream. Check out HSN under their vitamin c creams.

As for the whatever all that means, This is the vitamine E mixture. And having all of them in the D form is better. Some manufacturers will use the D and L form. Half D and Half L. It is very expensive to isolate the D. This will be a more effective.

I would only make up an once at a time. Use it up and make up more.

: Hi Wayne -

Thanks for getting back to me on the softgels. I have been puncturing one A and one C & E softgel each night to put on my face and haven't had any adverse effects and my skin doesn't seem as dull. I'm sure you will come up with much better products for your kit and I can't wait to order one.

Thank you,

Leslie

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: Where can I buy or order the L-ascorbic powder and glycerin so that I can start making my own serum? Please send me some websites or addresses or phone numbers to order. If I contact pharmacies around here, I'm afraid they won't be helpful. Thanks, Martha

Wayne

I have put two links just above the comment box with links to buy both ascorbic acid and the glycern.

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Here is another article on the benefits of using a Vitamin C Serum. And what to look for if you are going to buy on of these serums.

Why You Should Use a Vitamin C Serum

Vitamin C Serum By Dr. Jo